Saturday, May 18, 2013

38. Nonsense: Anatomy Lessons




Nonsense by Becky Brown


 Ivory models revealed the secrets of female anatomy
for doctors.

Last fall's American political campaign reminded us that misconceptions and misinformation about female anatomy persist despite contrary scientific evidence. The mysterious biology of female private parts has been used to restrain women throughout history. Any stretch towards freedom---from saddles to sewing machines--- has been characterized as dangerous to the nether regions by opponents of change.


Charlotte Smith, president of the Women's Rescue League warned against the bicycle. 
“My views as to the unhealthfulness of the bicycle have been pooh-poohed by many persons who talk more easily than they think.... I know, from information given me by doctors, of many surgical operations for abscesses and other troubles engendered by the bicycle. The saddle is a fruitful source of injury. I am not putting the case too strongly when I say that bicycle-riding is ruining the health of tens of thousands of women in this country, incidentally involving the physical welfare of generations yet unborn."


The treadle sewing machine could produce "morbid effects"  warned the Boston Medical and Surgical Journal in 1871. 
"Two young women, sisters, who, in consequence of the prolonged use of the sewing machine, were made sick, the one with metritis, the other with a very rapid development of an ovarian tumor. In these two apparently dissimilar cases, two different diseases sprang from the same cause, which had produced in each a congested state of the inter-pelvic ovaries. It is in fact by the production of a permanent congested state of the generative system that the use of the sewing machine brings about the most injurious and most undeniable morbid effects."



A century ago, advocates of the side saddle had a hard time finding medical opinions favoring the traditional female seat, which resulted in many spine-shattering accidents, but conservatives continued to argue that riding in that awkward position protected the virgin's hymen and the wife's fecundity.

Lady Greenall,  interviewed in a 1913 article in the Hobart (Tasmania) Mercury opined, 
"A woman has not the strength of a man, and, therefore, is not able to take advantage of the astride position." The reporter inserted his opinion. "Most good women riders in England hold that a girl should ride astride up to the age of twelve and then use a side-saddle. This ensures that the girl runs no risk of curvature during her tender years."


In England in 1913 King George V and Queen Mary refused to allow women to ride astride in any official parades or on Rotten Row (the Hyde Park track favored by the upper class). The same year General J.P. Hickman forbid women to ride astride in the Chattanooga reunion parade of a Confederate veterans' group.

Understanding that social context gives us insight into the statement that Inez Milholland Boissevain (1886-1916) is making in these photos. An excellent rider, she led the 1913 Women's March on Washington astride a white horse.
Inez Milholland. 
Although the cape hides much of her,
everybody could see she was astride the horse.


Another view of Milholland on parade.

Nonsense by Georgann Eglinski

Nonsense seems the perfect block to recall that context. It was given the name by the Ladies' Art Company over a century ago. 

BlockBase #2811


Cutting an 8" Finished Block

A - Cut 2 squares 3-1/2".



Cut each in half diagonally to make 2 triangles.
B - Cut 2 squares 3-7/8".
Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles. You need 8 triangles.
C - Cut 4 rectangles 4-1/4" x 2-3/8".
D - Cut 1 square 3-1/8". (3-3/16" if you use the 1/16" default in BlockBase/)

Nonsense by Dustin Cecil

Queen Elizabeth II riding sidesaddle

Read a biography of Inez Milholland Boissevain at the Vassar College website:

Nonsense by Becky Brown

Saturday, May 11, 2013

37. Nameless Star: The Lucy Stone League



Nameless Star
By Becky Brown
  
The Nancy Cabot column in the Chicago Tribune printed this classic nine-patch star in the 1930s with the title Nameless Star. We'd probably call it a sawtooth star or a variable star. The pattern without a name can remind us of a woman's right to keep her own name when she marries.


Lucy Stone, 19th-century women's rights advocate, was well-known for refusing to change her name when she wed in 1855. "A wife should no more take her husband's name than he should hers. My name is the symbol of my identity and should not be lost."

 Ruth Hale (1886-1933) was a drama critic

Her choice inspired a group of journalists coming of age in the 1910s during the fight for the U.S. Constitutional Amendment for women's voting rights. When Ruth Hale married Heywood Broun in 1917 and Jane Grant married Harold Ross in 1920 they wanted to keep their professional names, an act of independence that completely befuddled the legal and social systems. One could not vote, check out a library book or register at a hotel if one did not meld one's identity into one's husband's. Hale and Grant founded the Lucy Stone League in 1921 to work for that right and promote "the idea that its women are integers and not halves."
 Jane Grant (1892-1972) and first husband in the 1920s

The League languished in the late 1920s but their goals were revived again in the 1960s when a new generation of women realized their birth names were important symbols of their independence. It took till the 1970s for the Lucy Stoners to win their fight when the courts established a person's right to use the name they choose.
Jane Grant

Jane Grant's first husband is often given sole credit for founding the New Yorker magazine in 1925 but she was his partner in shaping editorial goals, creating readership and funding the new magazine. As a New York Times reporter she had connections, skills and income during the first few years of publication. After their 1929 divorce the institutional memory of her role began to fade. With her second husband she became a dedicated gardener and they founded White Flower Farm, a mail order plant source.


White Flower Farms will ship you a Jane Grant Rhododendron.

Nameless Star
By Georgann Eglinski
  


BlockBase #2138d.

 Cutting an 8" Finished Block

A - Cut 4 squares 2-1/2"
B - Cut 1 square 4-1/2"
C - Cut 4 squares 2-7/8"

Cut each in half diagonally to make 2 triangles. You need 8 triangles.

D - Cut 1 square 5-1/4" (5-3/16" if you use the BlockBase 1/16th default.)

Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles. You need 4 triangles.





Nameless Star
By Becky Brown
    

Read more about Jane Grant:

Join the Lucy Stone League:

And read their history:

Read a 1922 NY Times story about the controversy over women using their "antenuptial names."

See a preview of Susan Henry's 2012 book
Anonymous in Their Own Names: Doris E. Fleischman, Ruth Hale, and Jane Grant

Nameless Star
By Dustin Cecil
  

Saturday, May 4, 2013

36. Sunbonnet Baby: Testament of Youth


Sunbonnet Sue
By Becky Brown

Sunbonnet Sue or the Dutch Doll was a very popular twentieth century pattern. 


Is she a baby or a faceless woman? The ubiquitous doll can remind us all the girls who've rebelled against becoming "an entirely ornamental young lady."

 Vera Brittain (1893-1970)
as a nurse during World War I

Vera Brittain came of age 100 years ago in the era of England's Suffragettes. In her memoir Testament of Youth she became the voice for her generation whose lives were destroyed in the Great War. Even before the war began in 1914, Vera typified what was later called a "generation gap," the battle caused by young people whose goals, experiences and attitudes were greatly different from those of their parents.

Testament of Youth begins with Vera's account of the conflict with her affluent parents who persistently determined "that I should be turned into an entirely ornamental young lady," shaped in "the trivial feminine mould which every youthful instinct and ambition prompted me to repudiate." Their goals for her were to acquire "a brilliant husband" and then to be subservient to him for life.

 Vera and brother Edward

Vera had "a desire for a more eventful existence and a less restricted horizon." As an adolescent she was so bored she was in danger of "dying of spontaneous combustion." Her biographers discuss the conflict further. Her beloved brother was given the academic education Vera longed for. Her well-meaning father had "nothing but contempt for me and my knowledge...as he has at heart for all women because he believes them for some unknown reason to be inferior to him.... I have been impressed in this home of mine with the disadvantages of being born a woman until they have eaten like iron into my soul."

A clockwork doll

"Mrs Brittain could only sigh and declare that she would much rather have an ordinary daughter like other girls."
Vera found a way to go to college, which subjected her mother to abuse from her peers, the unofficial team in charge of reinforcing the social mores: 
'How can you send your daughter to college, Mrs. Brittain!'
''Don't you want her ever to get married?"


The voice of her unlucky generation caught up in the War, Vera also speaks for every girl who disappointed parents longing for "an ordinary daughter" who shared their values.Vera tried to please her family, to look and act like her peers, to deny her authentic self and be the person they thought she should be. But she was not ordinary and somehow that authentic woman escaped to become the writer who documented women's role in the Great War.


Sunbonnet Sue is number 47.1 in my Encyclopedia of Applique. The pattern here is drawn from the quilt above, made about 1935 when she was quite a fad.  


Click here to see a PDF with the pattern.

Or click on this drawing, copy it to a word file or a jpg and print it out.

 Add seams for applique.

Many of Sunbonnet Sue's variations are more in the folk tradition of patterns handed around rather than published. 

She has her origins in Bertha Corbett's illustrations for children's books. 

Sunbonnet Baby
By Dustin Cecil


Becky says, 
"I'm not much into clothes and fashion so I have no idea how to do her little outfit. If it's a sunbonnet, then she should be wearing a sleeveless sundress which would make her arm flesh colored. It's not! So in my version she has matching hat and shoes - how cute it is! I added a narrow piece of bias on her purple hat, but made her Metropolitan Fair (pink) hat out of 2 pieces. I used freezer paper and pressed the seam edges onto the shiny side of the paper and whip stitched them together. (I did the same on her shoe - it doesn't go up under her dress)."





Read a short biography of Vera Brittain here

Hear a podcast of Vera's own daughter's family memories at the BBC by clicking here:


And read a preview of Testament of Youth at Google Books here


The BBC dramatized her story several years ago.



Here's a full-length biography: Vera Brittain: A Life, by Paul Berry and Mark Bostridge, (Chatto & Windus, 1995) .


Georgann put her foot down on this one
 so I had to Photoshop a red version.




Saturday, April 27, 2013

35. Granny's Choice: "I'm an Anti"



Granny's Choice by Dustin Cecil 
 
   
Many women were opposed to female suffrage, perceiving the political arena as unladylike and viewing women who were interested in organizing, persuading politicians and venturing into public life as "unsexed."


In a contradictory move, however, women opposed to the vote organized their own political groups. In America the National Association Opposed to Woman Suffrage (NAOWS) was founded to consolidate state organizations in 1911.

 NAOWS Headquarters in either New York or Washington

Founder Josephine Jewell Dodge fit the stereotype of the woman who chose to be anti-suffrage. She was rich and well-bred. Her 1875 wedding was described as "the most brilliant and important social event of the season" in the New York Times. Yet this New York socialite was active in the area of children's welfare and early childhood education.


It's difficult to find a photo of Josephine Dodge (ladies' pictures were not in newspapers) but the Library of Congress has this 1913 picture of some fellow members of the NAOWS.


Like the pro-suffrage organizations the "Anti's" used the power of the press, publishing newspapers and pamphlets.



There were pledge cards and lapel ribbons, speeches and rallies. But their arguments had none of the flair of their pro-vote sisters. Mottoes like "Why waste time, energy and money, without result?" hasn't the punch of the simple "Votes for Women."


The media battle raged through the early 20th century. The Anti's may have won the hearts of the cartoonists.
 But anti-anti cartoons were also widely printed.


Socialite anti's (the woman above) were classed with these villains:  "White slavers" on the left  [the common euphemism for pimps and vice lords], business owners who wanted to exploit workers [women might want to effect change in the workplace] and the alcohol manufacturers who feared votes for prohibition.

Cartoon from Puck humor magazine



 "We Don't Vote for Women"; "We All Vote For Women". An enterprising postcard publisher made the most of the pro's and anti's in these glitter cards that were printed with various city locations.


Remember the Anti-Suffrage movement with Granny's Choice.


Granny's Choice by Georgann Eglinski

Granny's Choice by Becky Brown

BlockBase #2309

The pattern was published in the Kansas City Star in 1948.


Cutting an 8" Finished Block

The red measurements are a little larger---when the BlockBase measurements are set to 1/16" default.

A - Cut 1 square 7-1/4". (7-3/16")

Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles.
You need 4 triangles.
B - Cut 4 rectangles 1-7/8" (1-15/16") x 5-1/4". You'll trim these later.

C - Cut 4 squares 1-7/8" (1-15/16")


Piece the C squares to the B rectangles.
Add the A triangles to make larger triangles.
Piece those together and trim the B rectangles.

Granny's Choice by Becky Brown



Read an account of Nebraska's anti-suffrage movement in Laura McKee Hickman's, “Thou Shalt Not Vote: Anti-Suffrage in Nebraska, 1914-1920,” Nebraska History 80 (1999): 55-65.
Click here:


See more about this English image contrasting "authentic" women and suffragettes by clicking here: